Beginner Page:
“Free and Slightly-Biased But Hopefully Very Useful Advice”
Are you new to Vinyl LP Records?
Has it been a long time and you need a brief refresher?
Do you want to buy a record player for a friend or partner?
What is a “preamp” and why do I need anything “ahead of” an amplifier?
Here are the basics:
The record player rotates the record at the correct speed, usually 33.33 or 45 RPM (revolutions per minute).
The needle (also called ‘Stylus’) “reads” the record. The needle sits in a ‘Cartridge’ which converts the needle vibrations into an electrical signal. The ‘tonearm’ carries the needle and cartridge across the record.
The signal actually inscribed in the record groove has a tremendous bass reduction and treble boost.
Without a preamp, if you plug a turntable directly into an amplifier using the conventional Line/CD/Tape/Aux inputs, the sound will be extremely tinny, harsh, and low in volume. A Preamp stage boosts the signal and restores the correct tone balance. In the “Old Days” a stereo receiver or amplifier had a special input marked “Phono” that performed these necessary functions.
An industry standard-setting body called the RIAA determined the standard bass reduction and treble emphasis in 1954, and this ‘curve’ is called “RIAA”. The organization still exists and it serves as a trade lobbying firm for aural media manufacturers and associated entities.
Circa 1990, the Phono input was often deleted to save cost — as people moved to CDs, and away from vinyl LPs.
Newer two-channel stereo receivers being sold today (when they do have a built-in phono preamp) have a very basic circuit which cuts corners and will not do your vinyl playback system justice.
Some units sold currently by Japanese makers conform all “worldwide models” to meet (in our opinion, misguided) EU standards for Radio Frequency Interference tolerance. These manufacturers achieve this in the context of their simple circuitry by using a tremendously-oversized input capacitance as part of an overzealous input RFI network - using input caps up to 1000pF!!! While such a design may not ‘complain’ when you put your computer router right next to your turntable, this “protection” will destroy any semblance of good audio quality by producing a giant midrange peak with most cartridges in real world use - yet typical bench frequency response testing will look OK.
Here is an overview of the most common setups where a preamp is needed and where it connects: https://uturnaudio.com/pages/connecting-your-turntable. Today, it is accepted that most high-quality systems will use a separate Preamp box. External boxes can, in general, provide better quality than the old “built in” Phono inputs. Built-in ones, in an old receiver or sold to you inside a modern turntable, usually cut corners and are often little more than a design afterthought.
Turntable makers are rarely electronic specialists; they get a passable design from a consulting engineer in order to make the total “analog investment” appear less expensive. We at Darlington Labs believe that our products lead the industry in terms of a total “sonic value” proposition. A good or even great-quality turntable will still sound mediocre through generic playback electronics.
Most other preamp boxes on the market use generic circuitry which will substantially reduce the quality of sound produced by your record player. We use special technology and true audiophile design practices (typically quite expensive) to produce rich-and-immersive sound from your records.
Many years ago, people would buy a cheap record player when starting out. Most of those cheap players were ‘all-in-one’ units with included speakers. The “preamp” was either A) not needed due to the inexpensive high-output ceramic cartridge, or B) was a very basic circuit included deep inside and not visible to the end user.
These days, music is ubiquitous through the ever-present cell phones, associated Bluetooth speakers, etc. People no longer have a need to seek out an inexpensive record player to hear pre-recorded music.
A turntable with a generic preamp will tend to produce sound that is little better than that produced by digital streaming services. At that point, why bother with LP vinyl records, except for “retro status”, the nice cover art, or the sake of ‘collecting just for collecting’?
With a great preamp, many of our clients report the sound produced from their LPs is markedly superior to that from most digital sources.
Using a Darlington Labs Phono Preamp is one key way to help ensure that you hear the excellent sound which is contained in your records.
DECISION TREE: I already have a turntable.
Does it have a brand like Dual, Acoustic Research, Thorens, Rega, VPI, Pro-Ject, Linn, B & O, or Sota? If so, skip down to #2.
Does it have a brand like Technics, Yamaha, Pioneer, Denon, Sansui, Sony, BSR, or Garrard? Continue with this paragraph.
Does it look high quality? Does it have a long rectangular cartridge that says “P-Mount”? Tap the platter with your finger and do the same with the top surface between the tonearm and the platter. Pick it up with both hands and simply judge its weight. Do the tonearm have significant “play” or does it feel solid and smooth (don’t bend the stylus while doing these tests!).
If the turntable looks or sounds or feels cheap, or says “P-Mount:” on the cartridge, consider abandoning it since it may be a relatively low-end model which may not warrant additional investment in today’s market.
NOTE: If the needle “flips over” (has a spot labeled LP and 78 or LP and LPS, for sapphire) stop right there and buy a new turntable. You have an old and cheap ceramic cartridge that won’t do your records justice and will very likely damage them, even with a brand new needle. Likewise, if the turntable has a swing arm that is not the actual tonearm, it is a Record Changer that played multiple records at one time. When one was finished, another would drop down and play. Generally, those are of lower quality and did not treat records well.
A traditional “single-play”, “manual” turntable has been highest standard for quality since the early 1960s. Under no circumstances use a under-$100 “New” record player, especially the ones designed to look “Old”.. Those will butcher your records and are not at all what real vinyl LP playback is all about. Never loan out your precious records to friends with those players either. Instead, help them improve their systems (or perhaps look for some new friends).
Does it work (does the platter turn by itself)?
NO? Remove the platter and check for a broken belt. Search eBay and buy a replacement ($10-20).
If there is no belt, is there a round rubber wheel (called an idler wheel)?
Is it in good condition, not broken or chunks falling out? If the little idler wheel won’t rotate, carefully use sewing machine oil to lubricate the rotating pivot. Use 90% isopropyl alcohol on the idler wheel to clean it, and to clean crusty hardened lubricant from pivots if needed before re-oiling them. Don’t get oil onto any rubber surfaces!! If the platter doesn’t rotate freely, lubricate the center pivot. You may need to clean the hole first with Q-tips and alcohol. If the platter turns, it still might have poor speed stability if it was stored improperly. Idler wheels can get flat spots. The sound would exhibit “warble” especially on piano and acoustic guitar (restoration of classic turntables is outside the scope of this quick primer).
Does it have a stylus that isn’t bent or broken?
NO? Consider buying a replacement stylus. If the brand says “Stanton”, “Shure”, “Pickering”, “Ortofon”, or “Audio Technica”, spend up to ~ $50. Don’t spend more than $60 on a generic replacement stylus UNLESS you can be assured that it is directly from the original manufacturer OR is what is called “NOS” or New Old Stock (see below re: Jico). Generic replacement styli made by other companies can vary dramatically in performance; 3 to 5dB frequency response deviation from the original stylus is not uncommon.
In general, replacement stylii from the Japanese brand called “Jico” are reliable and can be recommended, but may slightly change the original sound of the cartridge.
You can buy a whole new cartridge plus stylus for $99 (the Ortofon 2M Red is a good example, and later you can buy their Blue Stylus and upgrade the performance of your setup without needing to remount a new cartridge). If you do buy a new cartridge, consider the following question: can you mount that new cartridge by yourself? It doesn’t just plug in but it usually has screws and nuts, called a “1/2 inch mount”, and 4 small wires with clips that attach to the rear in a color coded fashion. If you are good with small precision work, and can watch a YouTube video, or have access to a technically minded high school or college kid, the answer is probably ‘Yes’, you can do it.
Attempt to connect the turntable to your amplifier.
If your amplifier has an input marked “Phono” or “Magnetic”, connect it there, set the volume low but not to zero, and turn it on, then select Phono or Magnetic Phono. GENTLY and CAREFULLY stroke the needle using a ‘back of the turntable to the front of the turntable motion’ with your finger. Do you hear shuffling sounds coming out of the speakers? Turn the volume up slightly if needed. Is sound coming out of both speakers? Put on a record if you have one.
The correct ‘tracking force’ will need to be set, which is the downward force that the arm/cartridge applies to reading the record, and the arm may need to be rebalanced so that any built-in tracking force gauge reads accurately. You generally want the stylus to track the record at about 2 grams. Check the internet for operating manuals for more specifics related to your individual choices of gear.
Welcome, or welcome back, to the world of vinyl. You should have the stylus checked under a microscope to make sure that it isn’t worn out or have flat spots from wear. The diamond tips are good for up to 1,000 hours of record play if handled carefully.
If you want to improve the sound of your system, consider buying a Darlington Labs Preamplifier to go between the turntable and the amplifier. Our preamp box will feed a Line, CD, Tape or AUX input — but NOT the phono or magnetic input of the amplifier. (The latter would be double i.e. un-needed pre-amplification).
If your amplifier doesn’t have an input marked Phono, you will need a Phono (RIAA) Preamp.
Consider the Darlington Labs MM5A for $199.
You’ll need to head on over to eBay and search for our web store. The MM5A is solely available there. It is a distillation of our MM6B but simplified with no user adjustments.. For plug-and-play, it represents tremendous simplicity and sonic value. It is our commitment to offer a product that is under $200 in an entry-level offering. If that is too rich for your budget, then we suggest that you consider the Pyle PP-999 unit for $22. [Note: as of 10/3/22 this model is no longer shown on the Pyle website, but it appears to still be available from various eBay dealers and resellers]. The PP-999 is the best of the three Pyle units that we evaluated (other two being the PP-444 and PP-555). The PP-999 matched or bettered the sound quality of many $80 to $100 units in our competitive analysis and had RIAA response about +/-1dB. The other two were off by as much as +/-2dB yet the pricing appears similar. It remains unclear to us why they offer 3 models so closely spaced in the product line with minimal technical differentiation.
For the technically minded, our PP-999’s used a NE5532 op-amp although the PCB was marked for a 4558. Compared to the fancier-looking red one offered by a Utah-based competitor whose ‘Vee-Pee 29’ at $49 has a incredibly (and possibly intentionally) shelved-down and very weak bass response….by comparison….the plain-looking and low-end brand-name Pyle PP-999 is both a notably better performer and a genuine bargain.
You may want to replace the Pyle’s incuded DC power adaptor with a linear-regulated 24VDC adaptor for $14 https://www.jameco.com/z/DFU240050D3030-Jameco-Reliapro-AC-to-DC-Power-Supply-Wall-Adapter-Transformer-Single-Output-24-Volt-0-5-Amp-12-Watt_174861.html
This will immediately extend the dynamic range by about 6dB as well as lower the distortion and minor hum that are present while using the stock 12VDC adaptor. The internal design will automatically “rebias” itself to use the full +/-12V available from the aftermarket 24VDC unit.
Note: We are not responsible for any damage to your system or any device; we are simply sharing our findings. The regulated adaptor we mention above is very specific, it is a “linear regulated-output supply” and uses a 7824-type regulator IC which was accurate with 24V out, even under no load. Do not connect a typical unregulated 24VDC supply to these units, as the internal electrolytic caps will quickly fail. Nor do we recommend you use a switching-type 24VDC supply.
A knowledgable hobbiest could do a little work on the Pyle, or a similar unit, changing the op-amp as well as improving the power supply. The result could be reasonable longevity and sound quality, resulting in a unit that, in our view, is likely to surpass most commercial offerings of $150 or greater.
If you’re lucky, you might be able to find an old stereo receiver on the side of the road that has a working Phono preamp built in, in which case you can use it as a headphone amp or to drive speakers, or via its Tape Output as a standalone phono pre. As people are downsizing this becomes increasingly viable. The value proposition of eBay and Craigslist has, to a certain extent, it seems, declined over time with people asking rather inflated amounts for very pedestrian older gear in questionable working condition. For a certain type of person, there’s nothing quite like an early-morning or late-night drive through the appropriate neighborhood, eyeing your next piece of unwanted-by-someone-else-but an interesting-project-to-you-type of gear. Who knows, you can probably select a nice older desktop computer system, television and some comfy chairs while you are at it. Good luck.
I don’t have an Amplifier or I don’t have a separate-component-style stereo system.
Once you have a separate Phono (RIAA) preamp box, any following type of audio device which has an Auxiliary input will work. Most Bluetooth speakers have an Aux input, television-style Sound Bars usually do as well. You can use an inexpensive adaptor cable, called a 2-male-RCA to 1/8” TRS Stereo miniplug, to connect the output of your Phono Preamp to an amplifier that will further boost the signal and drive speakers. If you have a TV with separate RCA-connector inputs, such as for a video game console, this will work as well. You may even consider using a Bluetooth adaptor box (~$16) to take the line output from your phono preamp, and convert it to a Bluetooth signal which can then be received by a portable Bluetooth speaker.
On a temporary basis, and for the adventurous, you might consider stretching a long AC extension cord and power strip out to your car and plug into your car stereo auxiliary input. You will need to keep the turntable physically flat and the volume relatively low in order to prevent howling known as “acoustic feedback”.
Consider purchasing a used stereo receiver or amplifier from Craigslist as well as a pair of speakers. You may be able to find serviceable gear for zero cost at the side of the road, awaiting the recycling truck. Check that the speakers don’t have “foam rot” around the edge of the biggest drivers or be prepared to purchase replacement drivers from a vendor like Parts Express (who are also an excellent source of starter-quality complete speakers as well as speaker kits). The speakers will hook up to the amplifier with 2 conductor zip cord or lamp cord which is available from a local hardware store. Red goes to Red and Black goes to Black to ensure proper ‘phasing’ and the best sound.
DECISION TREE: I need to buy a turntable.
Do you want to buy something that you’ll be happy with for 2 years or more?
YES: Spend $300 or more on the turntable, and $100 or more on the cartridge. Try to avoid a turntable with a cartridge that’s supplied and already mounted by the turntable manufacturer
NO: Spend $200 to $250 on the turntable and it’s OK to get one with a pre-mounted cartridge.
Under no circumstances purchase a brand new turntable or ‘record player’ for $150 or less. We believe that you’d be better off with a random, ‘appears-to-work’ pre-owned model from eBay or Craigslist, in which case, once purchased, jump to Section 2 above: Does it work (does the platter turn by itself)?
Now jump to Section 4 above: Attempt to connect the turntable to your amplifier.
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Lastly, we suggest that you never buy a preamp from a turntable manufacturer.
(There is a fancy-cased one for $100 that is, in certain ways, worse than the $22 Pyle PP-999). We feel it’s best to stick with specialists who focus on their core competency. For the same reason, don’t spend extra for a turntable with a “Built-In” preamp. Those built-into-the turntable preamps typically feature mediocre performance, are located near the motor and subject to interference, and are not easily serviceable nor upgradable. Such a turntable will also have low-level signal path switch contacts just waiting to fail, so even IF you wish to, (or need to) bypass it in the future, ultimately decreasing your system’s long-term reliability.
Get your vinyl setup going and then start buying records or enjoying those that you were given, or haven’t listened to in a very long time. Records more than 70 years old, stored in good conditions, can sound like the day they were pressed. The quality of new vinyl has rarely been higher. We think you’ll be amazed that this 140 year old technology has so much to offer.